Aduu Juma Masudi | Kollektivnye

On the look out as ever, for the most exciting new creative talents to share with you we were bowled over when we heard about award-winning Menswear designer Aduu Juma Masudi. His A/W ’12 collection ‘The New Pachucos’ is earning him plaudits around the fashion world and represents a stunning body of work with which to graduate. We caught up with him over the weekend to discuss his influences for ‘The New Pachucos’ and his time spent interning with modern legend of British fashion, Ozwald Boateng.

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KLLKT: When did you decide that fashion and more specifically, menswear was where your passion lies?

ADUU JUMA MASUDI: I decided to specialise in menswear after interning at Ozwald Boateng. I remember the build-up to Ozwald Boateng showing at London Fashion Week back in 2010, it was so exciting seeing the collection from paper to actual garments, helping out with the castings for models and styling backstage at the LFW show. I remember thinking ”this is the only world I understand”, it all made sense to me that I wanted to become a menswear designer. I then went on to intern at Allsaints menswear design which confirmed and furthered my passion for menswear.

K: What can you tell us about your Autumn/Winter collection The New Pachucos? What were your influences and how do they come together as a concept?

AJM: From the start, when researching and putting together a concept of the collection, I knew I wanted to offer a collection packed with my personality, almost like my life journey. I have always been a big fan of Pablo Picasso, especially his “Girl Before A Mirror” painting; the painting displays a girl looking in to a mirror and seeing a different reflection of herself. The painting can be translated with different meanings but my understanding was that the girl was seeing her inner self which is something I can relate to from my teenage years. I remember when I was 16/17 years old and feeling lost because I didn’t know who I was and because I had so many expectations of what I should be like. I remember hating myself because I could see this other person in myself who couldn’t express himself like he wanted to, I then fell into this creative world that allowed me to express myself in so many ways.

I wanted to use the painting as part of my collection but making it current. After developing and manipulating the painting I then came up with the black and white version, which I used as a print throughout the collection. Another influence come in a form of Zoot Suit. I wanted to explore and recreate this distinctive Zoot Suit style with a current and hip vibe but still keeping the ethnic feel. The Zoot Suit style led to looking into the Pachuco gangs who were associated with Zoot Suit.

Merging the two influences together, The New Pachucos collection offers sharp clean cut essentials from doubled breasted, Italian wool pea coat, printed shirts with a one piece overlapping yoke to the voluminous pleated trousers.

K: The range makes use of a monotone palette, how does this help to articulate the New Pachuco look?

AJM: The monochromatic element/inspiration came from another Picasso painting called “Guernica”. The painting’s black and white palette made it look almost mysterious but sharp at the same time, which is the overall look i wanted to portray. Personally, I have always felt comfortable in monochrome shades too and its something that i want to offer in my future collections.

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